Bordeaux- it's wine o'clock

Bordeaux situated in the south-west of France very close to the bay of Biscay is well known worldwide because of it's wine industry, considered amongst the best in the world with an annual production of approximately 960 million bottles. Wine had been produced in the region since the 8th century.

This year Bordeaux won the title "European Best Destination 2015", beating such cities as London, Rome and Barcelona. And after visiting I can say that Bordeaux absolutely deserves it. Lisbon got the second place in this competition and Athens received bronze.

Being the 9th largest city in France, Bordeaux has 362 historical monuments, skipping ahead only Paris. The historic part of the city is on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2007 as "an outstanding urban and architectural ensemble" of the 18th century. There are many beautiful places in France, so do not limit yourself with Paris. My trip to Bordeaux started with a couple day visit of Paris. This was not the first acquaintance for me. Comparing my impressions of these two French cities, I personally preferred Bordeaux. So, if you like French charm, architecture, cuisine and are an expert in wine tasting you will for sure enjoy your visit to Bordeaux.

The city center is very compact, so if you choose to stay in a hotel here, there is no need to use public transport. Here is a very good map  for exploring the old city  sights.

 But if the weather is sunny and pleasant and you are a bike lover have a ride on the Garonne river embankment. In 2015 Bordeaux was listed as the 8th most bicycle-friendly city in the world.  There are 1700 bicycles available, so it's completely not a problem to get one. As in the other European cities, you can borrow a bike from any station and return it to any other. Travel time under 30 minutes is free of charge and the price per day is only 1.50 EUR. Here is detailed info about fares.

 

However the public transport system here is very convenient as well. There are 3 tram lines A, B and C covering most of the city.

Here you can find the information about the transport fares, timetables and maps including information about where to buy tickets.

        

 Let's start our journey from the Bordeaux tourist office, where you can get a map and also some guidance on events that currently are happening in the city. When you will exit the tourist office you will face Place des Quinconces- one of the largest squares in Europe.

 

In the center of the square you will see Monument to the Memory of the Girondins that features a 43 m column and multiple fountains. After taking pictures head to embankment and have a walk in the direction of the city center. Stop near Place de la Bourse- one of the most recognisable sights of Bordeaux.

Right near the river bank you will explore Miroir d'eau or water mirror- the World's largest reflecting pool, covering 3450 square m. In summer, a system allows it to create fog every 15 minutes and makes a view really spectacular.

One more typical Bordeaux symbol is Grosse Cloche or the Great Bell that is one of the oldest belfries in France. The bell rings 6 times a year for major celebrations.

 

What I mostly like in the cities like Bordeaux, comparing to the larger metropolitan cities is the fact that here it is not necessary to use a map to find some sightseeing spots- just have a walk in the old town and you will see a lot of spectacular places.

 

Bordeaux Cathedral or Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux in French. Excellent example of Gothic architecture where Anne of Austria married to the French King Louis XIII in 1615.

 

The cathedral is truly beautiful from both inside and outside and is full of history.

One more typical example of Gothic architecture is Porte Cailhau tower that stands on the river side of Palace Square. 35 m tall tower was built in 1494 and integrated to the city walls.

 

 As it's always very typical in France - the city is full of flowers, even in autumn.

After exploring old city have a relaxing break in the Jardin Public - a beautiful park right near the city center. For me the park seemed more similar to London parks, than Paris one's.

Before you head to the park, buy some French specialities in the small local shops in the city center. The food is delicious here. Cheese and wine tasting is a must. Brie, Camembert, Roquefort, France has it all. Visit Paul to get some delicious éclairs and croissants. They have fantastic macaron cookies as well. And do not forget to taste canelés- small pastries very popular in Bordeaux.

Talking about the cuisine- specific dishes in the region are- lamb, duck confit, seafood and of course oysters from Arcachon bay. As Bordeaux is a truly wine region many restaurant offer food and wine pairings here. The most of the Bordeaux wines are blended using couple of grape species and sometimes are called "the art of blending". In the case of white the combination usually includes Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, but the red one's typical are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

One more good option for a relaxing break is le Lac or lake in English, where you can swim and have some sunbathing.  There are tables for picnic right near the beach. Situated north to the city center le Lac is accessible using tram line C, exit on Berges du Lac stop.

If you are a shopocholic visit Galeries Lafayette - a four floor multibrand store located on the main shopping street of Bordeaux 11-19 rue Sainte Catherine.

When you will be tired of Bordeaux elegance and wine, take a train ride towards the bay of Biscay. Arcachon is a very good option- situated just 55 km to the west of Bordeaux. There is a frequent train connection between Bordeaux St Jean train station and Arcachon. The journey duration is starting from 50 minutes, depending on the number of stops. Check the timetable here. The regular one way ticket price is 11.50 EUR.

Arcachon is a small resort town situated in Arcachon Bay right near the Atlantic ocean featuring hundreds of beautiful villas located right on the coast with a fantastic sea view. Arcachon Bay is well-known in France for it's oysters.  

Château Deganne built in 1853 and from 1903 being a Casino is the biggest building in Arcachon.

Have a walk near the coast and you will face bright white yachts all the way long. Do not forget to take your sunglasses, sunscreen and swimsuit with you.

Countless yachts, expensive villas, endless coastline... the Biscay bay area a little reminds of the French Riviera - Cote d'Azur, but is much more elegant and classy.

The best way to explore the area is to have a walk by the coast in the direction of Dune du Pilat.

Be prepared - the distance is about 12 km one way, but it's worth every step. Actually, this was one of the best walks in my life.

You can see it on a map, nothing complicated just follow the coastline and enjoy the scenery. On the next photo you can see how the part of the walk looks from above.

Arcachon is known for Europe's largest sand dune - the Dune du Pilat, nearly 3 km long, 500 m wide, reaching 110 m in height. If you are not strong in long distance walking you can take a bus number 1 from the Arcachon train station. Timetable is here.

Here is a website of the dune where you can see 360 degree virtual tour and map of the area.

Dune du Pilat attracts more than a million tourists every year and is second most visited natural monument in France. If the weather is nice it's a good idea to have a swim in the ocean. Information about the beaches can be found here.

In case the weather allows to make a relaxing beach vacation - book one of the Arcachon hotels for a couple of nights to build up your tan and explore the ocean. There are many restaurants, oyster bars and gelaterias in the area as well as the options for entertainment.

There are multiple signs that paragliding is not allowed  on the dune, but it looks like nobody cares.

When you will finally reach the top of the Dune du Pilat, may be not from the fist attempt but still- look all the ways around, the views are breathtaking - maritime pine forest, Atlantic ocean, endless sandy beaches, dozens of para-gliders, yachts...

Sit back, relax and enjoy the atmosphere of this unique place.

If you have enough time, take a boat ride and see the beauty of the Atlantic ocean in the bay Biscay or take one of the excursion boats in the bay Arcachon. For detailed information view the tourist guide.

Not to get lost: 

Bordeaux wineyard map

Bordeaux center maps

Bordeaux city guide 2015

Bordeaux wine tours 2015

Arcachon wi-fi hotspots

Arcachon bay maps

How to get there:

The easiest and most convenient way to reach Bordeaux from Riga is to take a flight to one of the Paris airports.

Wizzair will take you to Paris Beauvais airport. The flights are operating twice a week - on Mondays and Fridays. The price depends on the dates of course, but is starting from some 60 EUR  for a return ticket without luggage. 

Here is the information on baggage allowance. Remember- only small cabin bag (42x32x25 cm) can be taken on board without a fee. 

There are two checked-in baggage weight options: up to 23 kg and up to 32 kg. As the prices vary depending on a low or peak season and routes, exact baggage fee can be calculated here.

If you are planning to be frequent Wizzair flier, check the Wizzair discount club offer.

When you will arrive to Paris Beauvais airport to reach Paris city center (Porte Maillot) take the shuttle bus. One way ticket will cost you 15.90 EUR if you book online. The journey time is about 1 hour 15 minutes.

Another usually much more expensive solution is Airbaltic  daily flight to Paris Charles de Gaulle airport. Here are the options how to reach Paris city center from the airport. The journey time is about 1 hour.

One more reasonable option of indirect flight in this case is offered by Ryanair. The connection can be made using London Stansted or Brussels Charleroi airports.

After you have reached city center, you have to take a train to Bordeaux. Book tickets using SNCF website. Check the sales and best fare calendar.

The train leaves Paris Montparnasse station for Bordeaux St Jean, journey durations in average is 3 hours and 20 minutes and the prices vary depending the time of the day you travel and how in advance you book.

High speed trains are comfortable and landscapes outside the window are picturesque. When you will book train tickets for IDTGV- there are two options of surroundings to choose from- IDZap (area of conviviality and discovery, in easier words the regular train area) and IDZen (a spirit of calm- mobile phones strictly forbidden, soundproofed area and subdued lighting).

 

Some travel tips: If you want to combine a sunny ocean gateway to the bay of Biscay together with exploring the Bordeaux, the good period of travelling would be from May to September. If you have not visited Paris up to now, it's a good idea to do it during this trip as probably you will be arriving and departing from one of the Paris airports, so reserve a couple of days for Paris.

During the security check in Paris Beauvais airport before our flight back, all the Camembert cheese that I bought for my friend was not allowed to take on board in my cabin baggage. The reason that security check specialist mentioned was "Cheese is in the liquid state". Really? After the area of security check I saw a poster indicating the types of cheese that you can take on board and the types you can not. Something like that I faced for a very first time. Why this information was not mention during the luggage check-in is not clear for me up to now.

 

Have a nice trip full of emotions!

Julija

 

Lisbon- a perfect sunny escape

As it's a good idea to plan travels in advance, now I will advertise a destination that from my point of view is perfect for late winter/early spring sunny escape - Lisbon, or Lisboa in Portuguese. The capital and the largest city of Portugal, situated on the edge of Europe is second-oldest European capital after Athens, once being a home to the greatest explorers like Vasco da Gama, Magellan and Prince Henry the Navigator, is definitely worth visiting.

Of course depending on a year, but in average the weather in the beginning of March in Portugal is sunny and pleasant, with temperatures about +17 degrees, that is completely enough for escaping from snow, rain and wind. 

One more reason for choosing Lisbon as an escape destination is the price- the trip to Lisbon will cost you much less than the vacation in Paris or Rome, especially if you will book tickets in advance. The average price for a really good 4 star hotel in the centre of Lisbon is around 50 EUR per night for a double room with breakfast included, and no doubt you can have a meal for two in a middle range restaurant for 30 EUR. Officially, Lisbon is Western Europe's least expensive capital.
But of course the main reason of visiting is the city itself.

Remembering my trip, I can not say that there are some one or two major sightseeing spots in Lisbon, so do not expect to see local "Coliseum" or "tour Eiffel". But trust me, it's completely not a minus. Lisbon actually is packed with attractions and sights.

One of the main symbols of Lisbon is a tram. The Lisbon tramway network is in operation since 1873. A highlight of any visit to Lisbon is a ride on the tram. Tourists usually choose route number 28, because this route passes through the major Lisbon districts. Due to the hills, only the classic Remodelado trams, that were originally commissioned in the 1930s, are able to  navigate the steep inclines of the tracks.
The number 28 tram departs from Praca do Martim Moniz and the first section rides through the Graca and Alfama districts. Route part from the Santa Luzia viewpoint and Baixa is the busiest one.
All tram route timetables can be found here.


One more typical symbol of the Portugal and Lisbon as well is Galo de Barcelos- brightly colored roosters. The legends why Galo de Barcelos became a symbol of the Portugal were passed from generation to generation and the stories do vary, but the moral stays the same - Galo de Barcelos represents honesty, integrity, trust and honour, and it is also believed to bring good luck. Souvenier shops are filled with the brightly colored Galo de Barcelos rooster souvenirs. 

There are a lot of sights to see in the Lisbon and around. So, let's start a little virtual excursion.

 

The geography of Lisbon may seem confusing. The city is very hilly and maps can be deceptive when they show two parallel streets, when one actually can be 30 m above the other.
There are four main districts for the sightseeing.

Almafa, where you will see the Lisbon cathedral- the oldest church in Lisbon built in 1147. It has survived many earthquakes including the devastating 1755 earthquake.

 
The famous Sao Jorge castle overlooking the historic center of Lisbon and the Tagus river is a perfect panaramic spot to see the city from above. Castle's oldest parts date from the 6th century. Some parts of the castle were destroyed  in the Great Earthquake of 1755.
As the royal palace, the castle was the setting for the reception by King Manuel I of the navigator Vasco da Gama when he returned from discovering the maritime route to India in 1498.
Here is the information about the tickets and opening hours.

Sao Jorge castle can be seen from almost everywhere in the city.

The castle can be reached on foot, but if you are tired or your time is limited, mini bus route 37 will bring you to the main entrance, the other option is to use tram route 28, that is more enjoyable, but will require a short walk.

Baxia and Avenida is the central and the busiest part of the city with many fountains, beautiful squares and narrow streets full of restaurants and taverns where you can enjoy typical Portugal specialities, including large variety of fish and seafood while enjoying fantastic weather conditions and atmosphere in the terrace of one of the restaurants near Rossio or Praca da Figueira squares. It's a good idea to taste Portugal wine - Port or Madeira as an aperitif. Most of the cafes and restaurants in Lisbon offer Pratos do Dia- Plates of the Day. Offerings usually change daily. As usually my advise is- try to find a restaurant for locals, not for the tourist, in this case the quality will be completely different. Pass through narrow streets a little away from the crowds and main squares. An authentic local restaurant will usually have handwritten Portuguese menu on window- instead of touristic menu with a lot of photos.

If you want to enjoy spectacular views of this part of the city, visit elevator de Santa Justa located in the end of  Rua de Santa Justa. The elevator is 45 m high. Multiple levels of Lisbon due to the hills have always been a problem for travel between the lower streets of the main Baixa and the higher Carmo Square. Santa Justa lift has become a tourist attraction for Lisbon same as the other lifts in the city, but Santa Justa is the only remaining vertical one. Others, including Elevador da Gloria and Elevador da Lavra, are funiculars.

 

Bairro Alto and Chiado. Bairro Alto district is the Lisbon vibrant nightlife quarter featuring dozens of bars and restaurants. In contrast, Chiado is a fashionable shopping district  where you can visit elegant shops cafes and restaurants. The area is full of Lisbon charm. Here is the list of Bairro Alta and Chiado restaurants.
 There are many very nice local brands in Portugal, so some shopping is a must. Main streets of the district are Rua do Diario de Noticias, Rua do Norte, Rua da Atalaia .
After some shopping do not forget to visit Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara -a garden with a panoramic view over the city. As Bairo gets very noisy at night, it's not a good idea to choose the hotel in this area.

Belem district is away from the busy city center. The easiest way to reach Belem is to take tram 15, during the ride you can enjoy the views of the busy embankment. Or the alternative- use one of these buses: 28, 727, 729, 751.

Belem is mostly known for the Torre de Belem. The tower was built as a fortress in 1520 in the middle of the Tagus river. You can visit the tower for free on Sundays and public holidays before 2 pm.

But there are many more beautiful sites here. Including Mosteiro dos Jeronimos that building was financed by "pepper money" a tax levied on spices, gold and precious stones.
16th century was the rise of the Manueline style in architecture, which left its mark in many monuments including Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery, which are UNESCO World heritage sites.

Just few steps away from the embankment is the Museu de Marinha that is dedicated to discoveries and ship-building, you will find the navigational instruments, the replicas of the 16th century maps and of course the big exposition of the ships. The entrance is free on Sundays before 2 pm.

On the Belem embankment you will also see the monument to the Discoveries, where you can see the famous Portuguese discoverers including Vasco da Gama.

Most of the Portuguese expeditions of the Age of Discovery left from Lisbon during the 15th to 17th centuries, including Vasco da Gama's expedition to India.

As many sites in Belem are free on Sundays, I would suggest you to visit this district on Sunday morning. After exploring Belem, make a break and have a cup of uma bica- a small cup of strong coffee, similar to Italian espresso, or um galao- very milky coffee usually served in a glass and for sure try pasteis de nata, as well known as pasteis de Belem- typical Portugal delicious custard pastries- a must try when you're in Lisbon.
If the weather is sunny, head to one of the Lisbon parks and have some ice cream.

 As you're not in Italy and here are no gelaterias serving fantastic gelato at every corner, but Häagen-Dazs can solve this problem.

 

When you had explored all districts mentioned above, my suggestion is Lisbon Zoo, one of the best Zoo's I've visited. And I've been to many zoo's, including famous Berlin, Vienna and Beijing zoo's. To get there you can use a metro till the station Jardin Zoologico or choose one of the busses:701, 716, 726, 731, 746, 754, 755, 758, 768, 770 and exit at the stop Sete-Rios.

There are many attractions in the zoo, including the cable car, so you can see the zoo from above, the journey lasts about 20 minutes and is very excited especially when the cable car drives above the tigers and lions.

There is a dolphin and sea lion show as well. All the shows and attractions are included in the regular ticket price. Here is the timetable.

One more must visit place when you are in Lisbon is Sintra, situated just some 25 km away from Lisbon. The easiest way to reach  Sitra from Lisbon is to take a train. The train to Sintra departs Lisbon from the Rossio train station, located in central downtown Lisbon. The train station is connected to the green metro line and is served by the Rossio metro station. A single train ticket from Lisbon to Sintra costs 2.15 EUR. After arriving to Sintra train station use bus 434 that is specially designed for tourists who are visiting Sintra as a day trip and connects the train station, the historic center, the Pena Palace and the Moors castle. The 434 bus service makes it possible to visit the town and the three major sights of Sintra in a single day.

I would suggest you to reserve 2 days for visiting Sintra and one extra day for visiting the Atlantic ocean coast. But wake up early, there are a lot of sights to see in Sitra. Sintra is a UNESCO cultural landscape sight and is well known worldwide for it's magnificent castles and palaces. Moorish castle, National palace of Sintra, Park and National palace of Pena, National palace and gardens of Queluz, Park and palace of Monserrate- yes all these castles and palaces are located in Sintra.
Here is the information about the ticket prices and opening hours, there is an option to book tickets on-line to avoid queues in the high season.

For me the most beautiful sight in Sintra is Palacio Pena, that can be translated to English as feather place. Pena palace is situated on the top of the hill and looks like a castle from the fairy tale. Palace is some 5 km away from the Sintra city center. The Palace and Park of Pena are open daily except December 25 and January 1. 

In 1995 palace was added to UNESCO World Heritage List.

 

The palace was built in the 19th century. Inside the palace you can explore  the beautiful classical and elegant interiors.

The views from the palace terrace are breathtaking, you will see the Atlantic ocean and the some other castles of Sintra as well.

After exploring the castles, have a walk in one of the beautiful parks.

Then take a 474 bus to city center and enjoy lunch in one of the multiple tavernas in the city center and have a walk through the narrow streets, to buy some souvenirs that would remind you about this fantastic place.

One more interesting option to do in Sintra is to take Sintra tramway to the coast. The tram connects Sintra with the resort town of Praia das Macas. The line was opened in 1904 and tram uses classic 1930 Brill trams, which slowly trundle down from the hills of the Sintra to the pretty coastal town. The tram operates from Friday to Sunday, with an extended summer timetable. Check the actual timetable in the tourist information desk. A single ticket will cost you 2 EUR, the journey lasts about 40 minutes.

Not to get lost:

Lisbon metro 
Lisbon buses, trams, funiculars and elevators
Transport fares
Daytime transport map
Night transport map
Airport shuttle
Lisbon restaurant reviews

How to get there: 
Hope you are not afraid of flying, because the easiest way to reach Lisbon is to take a flight.
There is no direct fright from Riga, but there are convenient connecting flights.
Riga-Frankfurt-Lisbon operated by Lufthansa offers you 4 options daily. The minimal duration of the journey including time between frights is 6:40.
The prices of course vary depending on the day of the week and the month as well, but in average it's possible to get return ticket for about 200 EUR in Economy Light class- the new ticket class offered by Lufthansa from October 1st. The difference between Lufthansa Economy ticket classes can be seen below:

 If you have never been to Frankfurt, it's a good idea to choose option with some 5-6 hours between connecting flights either on your inbound or outbound journey and instead of spending time in the airport head to the city centre using S-bahn. The city centre is some 30 minute ride away from the airport.
A little cheaper, but less convenient option is using one of the Ryanair flights, with connection in London Stansted, Dublin, Manchester, Milan Bergamo or Frankfurt Hahn airports. The as the price difference between the first option offered Lufthansa and Ryanair flights is not significant, my vote goes to the Lufthansa even though the Lufthansa landing in Lisbon in a very strong cross wind was the scariest landing in my life. And one more point- remember that Ryanair does not sell connecting flight tickets, only separate tickets for every flight.  
More travel solutions can be found on skyscanner.


Some travel tips: 

For travelling within the Lisbon choose Viva viagem card- an electronic card for Lisbon public transport similar to London Oyster card. The cost of the card is 0.50 EUR. The ticket prices can be found here.

The optimal duration of the trip for visiting Lisbon, Sintra and the coast would be about a week.
I would suggest to visit Portugal in the very beginning of spring and to make a sunny escape from rains winds and snows. However, due to the mild climate Lisbon is an ideal year-round destination. Even in winter, when most other European cities are freezing, in Lisbon high temperatures rarely go below +10 degrees.

But if you force some rainy/windy days, head for some shopping. Lisbon and surroundings has some of the biggest shopping malls in Europe and most are very accessible from the center. The biggest in the city is Colombo, featuring lots of stores, cafes, restaurants and a cinema.
The most convenient way to reach Colombo shopping mall is by metro using Blue Line till Colégio Militar/Luz Station. Plan your journey here. You can enter the shopping mall directly from the subway station.


Hope you are already searching the tickets :)

Julija