Friday 3 July 2015

Islands of the Mediterranean: Capri

What I can say - Capri is one of my favourite places, I'm simply in love with this tiny island located on the south side of the Gulf of Naples in the Campania region of Italy.
I remember, that some 15 years ago, when I was attending school, I heard a story about visiting Capri island, you can imagine, at that time travelling was not as widely spread as it is now, so it seemed completely fantastic for me. Later I have seen the photos of this wonderful island, and visiting Capri became one of my dreams.

Many years later this dream came true. Actually, once I have already been very close to Capri, when visiting Naples, but unfortunately the time was very limited and it was not possible to explore the island. By the way it is a very good idea of combining a trip - Naples, Pompei, Sorrento and Capri.

This is the view of the island when you are approaching it by ferry or catamaran from Naples or Sorrento.


And this how Capri island looks like from Naples embankment.
There are two harbours on the island - Marina Piccola and Marina Grande - the main port of the island, where your ferry will arrive. 
When you will arrive to Marina Grande, funicular railway is the quickest way to travel to the centre of Capri from the port, especially if are with luggage, funicular runs every 15 minutes and the journey time is just 3 minutes. If you are without any luggage it's of course possible to go on foot.

Both harbours are located in the main town of the island, that actually shares the name- Capri. Second town of the island- Anacapri is located high on the hills and is a place you should definately visit too.
There are many options for boat cruises in the Marina Grande harbour, most of them include a visit to Grotta Azzura in Anacapri.
 

The transport system in Capri is very easy to use, firstly, because the island is really tiny, secondly- the streets of Capri town are so narrow and meandering, that it's possible to use only the vehicle that you see on the sign.
If you want to go to Anacapri, there are frequent little buses departing from the Capri bus station, but do not expect a big bus hub, the bus station is as tiny as the island itself.
The second-  more romantic option is to take a taxi. There are no simple taxis, only 100% Capri taxis are available.
Well, Capri citizens definitely have a sense of humour.


When you will be choosing your hotel, I suggest you to book a room with a sea view.
It is mandatory to book a hotel in advance, now I  have checked hotels for a weekend in September, 92% of them are already sold out.

If talking about the beach vacation, Capri is not the best place for sunbathing and swimming. There are two rocky beaches: one near the Marina Piccola and one near Marina Grande, actually marina in Italian means seaside and piccola and grande mean small and large, correspondingly. But why to waste your time on sunbathing when you're on Capri?

Capri's most famous square- Piazzetta is the heart of the island. The official Capri tourist site says "It may be small, but it's the most fashionable square in the world!", I am not sure about the most, but definitely one of the most.

 
If you like to have a romantic dinner with one of the best views and very private atmosphere, wine bar Pulalli is waiting for you. As you can see on the picture there is only one table on a terrace facing the sea, so reservation in advance is a must.


There are many shops of world famous and local brands in both Capri and Anacapri towns, as well as many restaurants serving delicious Italian food.
The only place where pizza tasted better than here is Naples. But be prepared for high and very high prices. 
My advice is to have dinner in the places where locals do, for example Verginiello- a traditional Italian restaurant for locals with a fantastic view, very reasonable prices and delicious food- a large variety of incredibly tasty pastas, ravioli Caprese, gnocchi Sorrentina and simply incredible pizzas will make you want to return and return to this restaurant. The dinner for two with house wine will cost you about 30 EUR, that is super cheap for Capri. As the place is very popular, better book a table in advance. If you are searching for something a bit more glamorous there are many fancy and very fancy places to eat out on the island. Here are the restaurant reviews.

 

After putting on comfortable shoes have a walk  till Faraglioni- the three spurs of rock which rise up out of the sea. Here you will find info about the best viewing points. We followed via Mattermania in the direction of Arco Naturale.

The way there is picturesque with a lot of flowers and fruit trees.

 

And finally we reached Arco Naturale. The arch spans 12 m at a height of 18 m above ground.
 
Then we made a lap near the coastline through all the viewing points and returned to the town centre using via Tragara.

And don't miss a sunset!


As I already mentioned, the second island town Anacapri is a must place to visit too. So next morning head to the coach station and start you journey to the picturesque Anacapri.
If your height is above 1.85 m you will face some inconvenience inside the bus.
The views from the bus are spectacular and as the buses are tiny and are driving quite fast you will feel a bit like in a roller-coaster.
These pictures were taken through the window of the bus.
 
The first place that I suggest you to visit in Anacapri is Monte Solaro, soaring 589 meters above sea level is for sure the best panoramic point of the island.
The best way to reach the top - using a chairlift. Return ticket will cost you 10 EUR.
 
It's hard to describe the emotions from the chairlift with words- it's simply incredible feeling.
Here are some views on Anacapri town from the chairlift.

In some 15 minutes you will be on the top of Monte Solaro enjoying fascinating views.






From here you can observe Capri town from 589 meters above sea level and even see a part of  Sorrento in the mainland.




After exploring all sides of Monte Solaro, go down with a chairlift and move towards Anacapri town centre.
As you are in Italy try some gelato- ice cream in Italian, it's delicious! Pistachios, coconut, melon, strawberry, lemon, chocolate, mango or raspberry, so many fantastic flavours, it will be hard to make a decision. When I am in Italy I try to have some 3 or even 4 gelatos a day. Here you can find Italian gelato flavours decoded.


This is how typical car in Anacapri looks like.

Then head in the direction of Grotta Azzura (the Blue Grotto in English)- one of several sea caves, worldwide, that is flooded with a brilliant blue or emerald light. The cave extends some 50 m into the cliff and is about 150 metres deep, with a sandy bottom. 
It's possible to go there by bus as well if you're already tired, but I suggest you to have a walk - the road is so beautiful.


 Here is the map of the Old Walk of the Forts.

If you want to see Grotto Azzura itself, before heading to Anacapri, ask about the sea level on the particular day, because if the sea level is high, and this happens quite often, it will not be possible to enter the cave, the same was during our stay, but as Grotta Azzura was not a must for us, we were not disappointed. Here is the video from youtube


Not to get lost:
map of Capri island
ferry schedule
funicular timetable
map of bus routes

How to get there:

The journey to Capri from Riga, may seem you too complicated at the very beginning, but it's completely not a problem if you will plan everything in advance. So, lets start planning. 

Riga-Rome
Firstly, search for the flight from Riga to Rome. Airbaltic is operating direct  flights from Riga to Rome Fiumicino airport on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays and Ryanair operates direct flights from Vilnius airport (only 4 hours drive from Riga, with a smooth connection using flybus) to Rome Ciampino airport on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. 

Rome airport-Napoli Centrale
After arriving to one of the Rome airports take a bus to Roma Termini (Rome train station). From Roma Termini you will have to take a train to Napoli Centrale (Naples train station). Book a train in advance- the earlier the cheaper. When you will book a train, reserve some time between your scheduled time of arrival to Roma Termini and the train departure, because the planes sometimes are late.
There are different types of trains: Intercity (the duration of the journey is about 2 hours), Regionale (duration is about 2 hours and 40 minutes, it's possible to buy ticket only a week in advance), and more comfortable high speed trains Frecciabianca (duration is about 1 hour and 40 minutes) and Frecciarossa (duration is only 1 hour and 10 minutes). The prices vary from the period of the day, but mostly on how in advance you buy your ticket. Check here for the special offers. For example if travelling on Saturdays you can get 2 tickets for the price of one.

Napoli Centrale- Capri
After arriving to Napoli Centrale take a bus to the Naples port Molo Beverello. One important note- when you will check the timetable of ferries and catamarans to Capri, remember that there are two ports  in Naples (second is Porta di Massa).

Here is a very nice scheme how to get to Capri from Rome and from Naples.

In real life if you have planned everything in advance and have all the tickets, this journey will not be difficult at all.

Some travel tips: As I mentioned at the very beginning- it's a good idea to spend few days in Naples, visit Vesuvius, then have a day trip to Pompei (by the way there is a luggage storage right near the entrance to Pompei Scavi) and spend few days in  Sorrento- a very nice town on the Amalfi coast and after take a ferry to Capri and enjoy this fascinating island. There are direct ferries  from Sorrento to Capri. For sure will write a post about Naples, Pompei and Sorrento some day.

 
If you still had not proposed your girlfriend, Capri is a perfect place to do it!

Dreams have to come true!

Julija